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Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High, by Mark F., Martin, James Twight
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"Big, high routes at the edge of a climber's ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal errors. So where does the hard-core aspirant or dreamer turn? The only master class in print, Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers.
Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world's most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing.
Illustrated throughout with full-color photos. "
- Sales Rank: #679369 in eBooks
- Published on: 1999-09-01
- Released on: 1999-09-01
- Format: Kindle eBook
Review
...another quality mountaineering book from the sport's preeminent publisher, Mountaineers Books...entertaining reading. -- Wyoming Tribune-Eagle
Everyone from the hardened extremist to the aspiring tiger to the weekend punter will learn from this book -- Climbing magazine
Twight has been one of America's boldest alpine climbers for a couple of decades, and his book is a primer for serious mountaineers.(The Times-News (Twin Falls, ID)) --(The Times-News (Twin Falls, ID))
About the Author
Marc Twight is one of America's leading alpinists. His routes in Asia, North America, and the Alps have stretched the limits of the possible. Many remain unrepeated. His gripping accounts and vertiginous images of climbing at the edge have been published in leading magazines around the world. He lives in Boulder, Colorado. James Martin is a free-lance writer and photographer whose work has appeared in Smithsonian, Sports Illustrated, Climbing, Outside, and a host of other publications. The author of several books, Martin is also an experienced climber who has established first ascents in the U.S. and Canada. He lives in Seattle, Washington.
Most helpful customer reviews
2 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
The power of the mind
By J. W. Mullins
I am not a climber, so I am certainly not qualified to talk about big portions of this book. I bought this books because it came highly recommended by a couple friend's of mine in the know. The sections about mindset and training are worth the price of this book alone. Mark Twight writes in a clear, concise and no nonsense way. You might not agree with something he says but you can't argue that whatever he presents is logical and well thought out. I recommend this book to anyone who's job, hobby or live style requires extreme amounts of focus and will power to succeed. Its money well spent and you won't regret it.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
Best how-to
By A Customer
I wish I had this book when I started to alpine climb over 20 years ago. It would have cut my learning curve in half and saved me from hauling way too much junk up some very big routes!
62 of 63 people found the following review helpful.
Also for the not so extreme alpinists...
By K. H. Kikstra
Mark Twight has not written an instruction book filled with clear drawings about how to tie a clove hitch. Beginning climbers looking for basic technique info should buy "Mountaineering: the Freedom of the hills" and go on a course first, but this does not mean that Twight's book is for extreme climbers only.
Any climber that knows these basic techniques benefits from his thoughs and experience. The book is divided in 4 parts:
(1) Approach: about 12 pages about your mental state of mind, very useful for the climber and anyone who wants to achieve specific goals as his thoughts about self-knowledge, focus, confidence, suffering, failure and learning can be applied to a broader range of goals.
(2) Training: this is the first time I have seen a real mountaineering training program in a book like this. He covers a 20 week training cycle in detail, with chapters on mental training, strength, endurance and importantly, nutrition. This really helps set a goal and work towards it. It's impossible to climb any mountain unprepared and unfit and depending on your goal you can adjust his schedule.
(3) Equipment: Clothing, Gear and Potection.
Twight has become (in)famous for refusing the accepted 3 layering system as it's too bulky, warm and heavy. He stresses the lightweight system which was an eye opener for me. Although his thoughts are not applicable for every mountain area (if you wait in Scotland for the rain to stop before climbing, you might as well not come at all...), it helped me to better pack my stuff for my trips: lighter and more useful.
His thoughts about gear are just very useful, learn from the expert, not from someone who is trying to sell the stuff...
(4) Technique:
No it will not teach you to climb a 5.14 at -40 degrees, but it covers things mostly overlooked in other books:
- Staying Alive
- Partners
- Going up
- Bivouacs
- Going down
Especially the latter 2 are things mostly ignored in climbing books (and some courses!), but these are things that also come in handy when lost in a not so extreme environment.
Overall I could not put this book down until I finished it.
The book is filled with experiences, good as well as bad. No drawings, but quite a lot of pictures, some of them useful for understanding the text, some just funny or cool to look at and dream away...
If you own Mountaineering: the Freedom of the Hills and you are not a complete beginner, buy this before you go higher, even if it's not extreme.
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